Back in 2004, when men’s and women’s beauty and skin care products were strictly divided into male vs. female divisions—and the packaging was blue or pink to prove it—Andrew Goetz and Matthew Malin launched Malin + Goetz. The unisex line had clean, nondescript packaging and the focus was on the effectiveness of the product, not who uses it.
“When we were growing our business, we were looking at how we could remain unique and fill a gap in the market, and part of that had to do with the fact that a lot of beauty was aimed at women,” Malin says. “There was a small, growing segment at the time focused on men. There wasn’t anything that lived in the space that wasn’t gendered or unisex.”
18 years ago, this genderless approach to personal care was a game changer. But now, styles are becoming less and less divided into “masculine” and “feminine”—and it’s unisex fragrances that have stolen the spotlight.
The future of perfume is gendered
Until recently, “masculine” fragrances were often woody, aquatic scents represented by a campaign featuring a rugged young man driving a boat, while women were expected to smell like delicate flowers or alluring and seductive.
“In the ’70s, ’80s and ’90s, perfume was sexualized because it was used as a tool of seduction — specifically, a tool to seduce people of the opposite sex,” says Steve Mormoris, CEO of Scent Beauty, which partnered with the Phluid Project. . to launch a line of gender-inclusive fragrances in the summer of 2020. “… But what’s interesting now is that consumers are instead using perfume to create an individual signature. It’s similar to getting a tattoo or wearing a special piece of jewelry. clothing that they belonged to a grandfather or an ex-boyfriend – it’s another signature feature.”
The idea of an “everyman” perfume may feel new, but it’s actually rooted in a centuries-old beauty tradition that dates back to before Calvin Klein launched his unisex CK One ($65) in the ’90s. “If you look at pharmaceuticals 100 or 200 years ago, you didn’t go in and say, ‘I’m a man, give me the treatment of a man,’ or ‘I’m a woman, give me the treatment of a woman.’ ” says Malin. “You went in and said, ‘Here’s my problem,’ and the chemist made you something in a bottle. That’s what we were trying to communicate with our fallback approach.
Now, traditionally masculine notes like patchouli and leather are featured in women’s fragrances while feminine notes like rose and white flowers are found in colognes—and people everywhere are flocking to perfumes that defy gender expectations. Case in point? When Malin and Goetz launched its Strawberry Eau de Parfum ($95) in 2021, the founders were of the opinion that the fragrance would be more popular with women than men. But they were in surprise: It was an even division.
This shift toward gender-neutral fragrances comes at a time when the world beyond the beauty industry is rethinking its perspective on gender: A 2021 survey by advertising agency Bigeye found that 50 percent of Gen-Zers and 56 percent of millennials are traditional. gender roles and bisexual labels are outdated. And as consumers have begun to challenge stereotypes of “masculine” and “feminine,” fragrance offerings have risen to counter them.
“We use the word ‘gender,’ which is the opposite of genderless,” says Matthew Herman, founder of Boy Smells. “That can be really bad and it’s like we don’t recognize that gender exists at all. I like ‘gender’ because it expresses the wholeness of masculinity and femininity and celebrates gender diversity. People are using more ‘gender water’ for products— I really like that word. “
How brands create fragrances that feel like they’re right for everyone
Creating a fragrance that transcends gender expectations does not come without its challenges. “It’s like music: our perfumers are like composers who try to avoid the odd pop songs or classics that they grew up with, so they had to think outside the box to create a perfume mix that brings something completely different from ‘masculinity’ or ‘womanhood’ in the traditional sense,” says Mormoris.
“We’re rooted in the idea that we can reinvent gender stereotypes and stereotypes, and part of the reason why Phluid is spelled ‘ph’. it’s because each of us can find balance… in masculinity and femininity and all the qualities that come with being male and female,” adds Rob Smith, founder and CEO of Phluid.
Boy Smells, which was launched in 2016, was created with the same values in mind. “When we decided to make a fragrance for boys, we called it ‘Scent of a Boy,’ but we put it in a pink box, and it’s a statement of, ‘I like the color pink, there are aspects of my identity that are feminine, but I’ve been told by society that I have to get rid of my identity because I’m a man,'” says Herman. “For me, it was taking a chance again to create these candles and perfumes that combine masculine and traditional feminine genders to show the complexities of a more modern identity than the one that came before.”
Ultimately, everyone—regardless of where they fall on the gender spectrum—is invited to the perfume party, and there’s a lot more to gender and scent. “Our fragrances reflect the identity of my friends, people I follow on Instagram, and people who are important to culture today,” says Herman. “Identity is a much more diverse, organized, and interesting canvas than it was before. Fragrance is reaching that level of diversity, and we hope to feel more inclusive.”
Shop our favorite gender-inclusive fragrances

Boy Smells Cashmere Kush – $98.00
With fruity and floral top notes (rhubarb, tulip, and wild orris) and woody base notes (vetiver and cashmere wood), this fragrance gives you the best of both worlds. “It’s very wild and unpredictable,” Herman says. “But then the powdery musk gives this softness and luxury to it. That uninhibited subtlety is so beautiful.”

Malin + Goetz Strawberry – $95.00
Strawberry is rounded with top notes of bergamot and red pepper; a heart of jasmine and forest greens; and a base of cedar, oak, captive musk and orris root for an unexpected interpretation of summer fruits.
“When you look at the name, there’s something ambiguous about it,” says Goetz. “The first thing people think of is something really sweet with vanilla – you know, a girl from the suburbs. When we named it Strawberry, we knew that very well and that was very intentional, because when you discovered this scent, it was the complete opposite. There is nothing sweet or to hide on it. It’s really incredistic modern with green undernotes. When we gave it the name Strawberry, we were mocking the world in general and being a little cheeky.”

Byredo Gypsy Water – $196.00
Byredo’s unisex fragrances span ointments, home fragrances, and body care, and the brand’s combination of careful chemistry and Scandinavian design has taken it to the top of its popularity. This wonderful scent is a tribute to Romanian culture, and has gained a following for its combination of notes such as juniper berries and pine needles combined with lemon, pepper and vanilla.

Phluid Project Transcend Eau de Parfum – $55.00
““Transcend is a more beautiful, fruity-floral fragrance because it’s about breaking barriers, breaking boundaries, and establishing yourself as an individual despite the stereotypes you’ve grown up with,” says Mormoris. Pairing light fruits and flowers with base notes like Palo Santo , the resulting blend offers the kind of aromatic harmony you can expect from all Phluid products.

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat Rouge 540 Eau De Parfum — $325.00
Elsewhere in the beauty world, Rihanna has been working to make products genderless (when she launched Fenty Skin in 2020, she famously wrote, “Whoever told you skincare was gendered, LIED TO YOU!”) so it makes sense that her signature scent is just as unisex. A true head turner, this perfume has been a crowd favorite ever since Maison Francis Kurkdjian and Baccarat decided to celebrate the 250th birthday of the crystal maker by creating a beautiful woody amber fragrance.

DedCol Fragrance 01 Taunt – $90.00
DedCool founder Carina Chaz created the brand’s first fragrance, Taunt, as a way to feel more comfortable in her own skin. “Vanilla mixed with amber notes really helped me explore my feminine side,” she previously told Well+Good. “When creating the Dedcool concept, Fragrance 01 Taunt and Fragrance 02 were the first two to be launched as I envisioned women wearing a masculine fragrance profile while breaking that gender stereotype.” The scent is now part of a large line of perfumes, all of which achieve perfect olfactory balance.

White Paper Solution No. 1 – $185.00
While bergamot has become a staple in floral, “feminine” fragrances, Off-White tweaks its power by combining it with vetiver and patchouli for a result that’s meant to “smell like sand.” It launched this summer along with three other fragrances and a gender-inclusive makeup line that marks the brand’s first foray into beauty.

Le Labo Santal 33 – $215.00
Santal 33 by Le Labo was designed to evoke a sense of personal freedom. Although it combines woody, musky, spicy and leathery notes, which are usually associated with masculine fragrances, the final product feels genderless as intended by the brand.
3 Pack Scent Collection Set – $150.00
Snif’s line of gender-inclusive fragrances is so amazing, it’s hard to choose just one. This third pack includes Burning Bridges, a smoky-sweet tobacco-vanilla blend; Natural Talent, an earthy-yet-bright fruity fragrance that combines apricot and soft suede; and Show Pony, a spicy flower. The brand allows you to try its products before committing to them (you’ll only be charged for what you decide to keep), but you’ll definitely want to keep these three signature fragrances on rotation.
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